A gloriously bold antique serpent necklace, centred with a sculptural berry-red garnet snake head set with rose-cut diamond eyes and a further rose-cut diamond to the nose. The serpent’s head clasps elegantly around the neck, while its sinuous body forms a rich, highly tactile, scaled effect - wonderfully substantial in the hand and even more striking on the décolletage.
A second, beautifully symbolic detail hangs from the serpent’s mouth: a garnet “grape” drop framed by fine goldwork and topped with a textured vine leaf - a romantic flourish that adds movement and unmistakable antique charm.
Based on the serpent motif, the rose-cut diamonds, the carved garnet head and the overall construction, we would place this necklace in the late 19th century - Late Victorian into early Belle Époque (circa 1880-1900). The rich “true yellow” tone and the way the piece is engineered (with different gold readings across different areas) suggest a Continental European influence.
XRF testing shows a fascinating variation in gold purity across the necklace:
Snake head underside: 16.39ct
Clasp tongue: 16.95ct
Snake body: 21.5-21.93ct
Snake body (where it wraps the garnet head): 19.46ct
Garnet & vine drop mount: approx. 16ct
This pattern is consistent with an antique piece that may have been made in 15-18ct gold for strength, then finished with higher-carat gold surface enrichment/gilding in areas, giving an exceptionally rich, buttery colour. In excellent antique condition overall.
There is a slight misshape under the head, and minor surface scuffing in the same area (consistent with historic metal testing), plus a small area of light scuffing to the back of the garnet “grape”. All wear is confined to the underside, not noticeable when worn, and does not detract from the beauty, security or presence of the necklace. There is also a small solder mark to the bail of the grape, appearing to be a historical repair to the vine.
Whether worn alone or in a layered stack, this piece will become a fast favourite in your collection.
